Ceramic tiles in the bathroom

Glotov Maxim Ceramic tiles have long stepped outside the bathroom, where it appeared originally. Now trim tile kitchen, hall, bedrooms, classrooms and even children's rooms. But all of this - only on request, but the repairs in the bathroom is still not possible without good old ceramic tiles. Here it is the place. On ceramic tiles market today presents a huge number of collections that differ greatly in shape, size, color, pattern, texture, composition solution, etc. However, by choosing a tile for the home, you need to focus not only on our own aesthetic preferences, but also on requirements that apply to the tile for a particular room. In the case of a bathroom, these special requirements. Omnipresent moisture Choosing tile for the bathroom, remember that there ceramic surface will often contact with chemical agents (detergents, etc.). Therefore, you will need a tile with a low porosity, low water absorption (preferably glazed) and good resistance to acids. But the wear in the bathroom - not the point. According to the destination floor tile is divided into five classes. The first is for facilities that are little used and which do not come in street shoes. Second - for areas with low intensity walk, where walking, say, with sneakers. Tile third class is used for cladding floors in buildings with high intensity walk. Tile fourth grade veneer flooring, exposed to abrasion with moderate to high intensity. Fifth - floors with any traffic (it can even be used in supermarkets). If we are talking about a bathroom, then there will suit tiles first and second class wear. Even more important criterion - the slip resistance, because the consequences of loss of balance on the slippery floor can be disastrous. To avoid injury, it is better to choose a product is not smooth and structured or embossed with a matte surface. On the market before tile, which has anti-slip properties, but it has a glossy, even a mirror surface. However, many experts are configured for this option rather skeptical. So, let's say you have chosen ceramic tile, fully meets the requirements that apply to rooms with high humidity. But we must not forget that, apart from the actual tiles, there are also intertiled space - the joints, which must also be protected from the omnipresent water. How to do it? One option - to purchase so-called rectified tile. It fits almost seamlessly (the minimum width of grout joints is 1,5-2 mm) and due to special handling edges formed into a single "monolithic" canvas. If this option is for some reasons is not appropriate (eg, aesthetic), you can go the other way: quality seal the seams. To do this, choose a grout made of high quality cement exclusively with natural pigments (if intertiled seams will look aesthetically pleasing for quite a long time). Such grouting characterized by high levels of strength, lightfastness, adhesion and water resistance (hydrophobicity). In addition, they are easy to use. Buyers are also offered to help protect joints from fading and contamination (eg, under the influence of "rusty" water), for strengthening and improving water and weather, preparations for the removal of the solution with the newly laid tile and wash tile in the future use. In Touch If you first put bathroom wall tile, and then put a bath (especially iron), high likelihood of damage to finish. In addition, in this case is unlikely to make a smooth joint between the tile and the edge of the sanitary ware, even if you have measured its dimensions to the nearest millimeter. To avoid this, first set the bowl bath and then placed around the tile: on adjacent walls, but if you want - and falshstenke covering the space under the bath. In the latter case, you must understand that any construction will block not folding access to communications and create inconvenience in the event of a leak. Before starting work, protect the tub from damage. To do this, you can use, say, a polymer film as mandated in several places with tape. Faucets and pipes can be protected with cardboard tubes. "Facade" falshstenu better done from the cement board (preferably waterproof), mounted on metal runners. Plywood for this purpose will not work: the constant exposure to moisture will ruin a design. If you plan to use for mounting tile adhesive mastic type, plate need to deploy the smooth side out. If you are going to apply the mortar, face to do the rough surface of the slab. Be sure to leave gaps of width about 3 mm between the plates. In this case, the joints should be taped out of fiberglass. So, everything is ready for laying ceramic tiles. Begin. First of all, lay along each wall, one row of tiles (not sticking). This will help choose the best option styling, which in places matching the tiles on the surrounding walls will not cut narrow strips. If the tiles at the end of series turns a width less than 2.5 cm, it is better to cut the tile at the beginning of the series, than to cut the tiles into narrow strips and fit them - many items just cracked. Make a pencil mark on the wall, where they will lie first and last tiles in a row. Using a plumb line (string laden), apply the vertical lines that indicate the correct direction of vertical rows. These lines will also help you at work in moving up the wall. With the help of a plumb-line can also be defined prior to installation irregularities of the walls and fix them where necessary. Keep in mind that the series of tiles should never end up in the spot where the seam of the cement slab. During installation, use the rule and the level for the permanent installation validation. If the series start to "converge" on a small section of tile is easier to adjust both the width and height. Customisation is done through careful expansion or decrease the width of grout joints. As you install tile, part of the glue can fasten on its surface. Promptly remove it help a sponge soaked in warm water. But only for a push on the tiles by rubbing it. Otherwise, the surface can popolzti. Grout, which is used in intertiled seams, we recommend treating with silicone sealant, which protects the joints from the washout. If the tiles on the restoration of tile in the bathroom is laid without regard to the recommendations of the experts, then over time the tiles may start to come away from the walls or fall out of the flooring. Usually this does not happen at once: the tiles begin to fall on one or two. When the process is "plitkopadeniya" has already begun, do not despair. Redo all the work is not necessary. But the repair coverage should begin at once, almost breaking away after the first tile. First of all, do not try to scrape off the wall remaining solution, you still will not work. Better obtochit break off the back of the tile with emery stone until until it is free to enter into "a place hiatus" (that is, to where it is, in fact, split). Then plaster tile adhesive PVA or epoxy glue, it also lubricates stiff grout, apply the material to its original place and gently presses. Done. Now the renovated site will serve almost longer than the other - not knowing the repairs. Sometimes the tiles falling off the wall with a solution. This usually occurs when the surface before laying was poorly prepared. For example, the master too lazy to clean off the walls of the old paint. In this case the repair technology will be somewhat different. For a start would have neatly, without strikes on the wall, scrape (stsarapat) paint with a screwdriver or a knife, and then - prime the surface with pure cement. We then proceed as described above technologies with grinding fallen tiles and hoisting it into place. Only instead of using adhesive cement. Mosaic alternative Today bathrooms are increasingly trim not only ceramic tiles, but a mosaic. Why? It turns out that Mosaic has a number of incontestable advantages. One of the most important - its endless artistic possibilities. With colorful pieces can be put on the walls and floor of the bathroom real masterpieces (selected by catalog or original author). But if the dignity of the mosaic were limited to aesthetics, it would not be so popular - it is no secret that today's collection of ceramic tiles, too often are works of art. Another definite plus mosaic is that it allows you to decorate columns, curved surfaces, ledges and grooves. Tiles, as a rule, does not allow to make such "maneuvers." Today, for the manufacture of mosaics used different materials: ceramics, natural and artificial stone, smalt, glass. But no matter what material you choose, do not forget about reliable waterproofing foundation. Otherwise, after 3-5 years mosaics will fall off with pieces of the base. Argued that the laying of the mosaic - the process time-consuming (pieces of mosaic tile is really much smaller). In fact, the complexity of the installation of this material has been exaggerated. Contemporary mosaics are sold as assembled modules, fixed on the sheet with paper or film, glued on the front side, or with the aid of a grid, glued to the underside. Incidentally, ceramic tiles and mosaics are not competitors. They can be perfectly combined. So, the floor may be tiled and the walls - a mosaic. And some customers are generally willing to combine the tiles and mosaics on the same surface. Nobody forbids to combine these materials in any combination - the main thing that they were placed correctly, in compliance with the requirements for waterproofing. TIPS mating surfaces (joints tiled walls and floor, the corners) to process high-quality sanitary silicone. First silicone sealant squeezed from a tube and fill them seam. With the help of manual spray silicone seam moistened with the addition of soap. This prevents the adhesion of silicone to the tile surface. Then the excess silicone collect a special tool that attaches to suture the desired shape. If in the application of the tiles you are a beginner or you just want to save time, use the quick-leveling compounds and adhesives. Such compositions are more expensive than usual, but work with them easier and faster. If the need for the lining around the tube, do not try to break down the hole for it in the whole tile: it will still crack. Better Draw outline of future openings in the tile with a sharp instrument, cut the tile in half, and then Break pliers halves the required holes. If in the whole tile is still necessary to make a hole, the product can be drilled through a thick drill bit, and then expand the hole abrasive block. But remember: this work is painstaking and tedious. When gluing tile adhesive should be applied to its entire surface, rather than dots or zigzags.