Nikolai Ovchinnikov, "The plot is dry, is located on high ground" - a phrase in the listings is expensive. In the literal and figurative sense. Land in the valley, in the area of ??potential flooding, vernal waters understandably valued low. Naturally, nobody wants to bungalow standing on plinth in the water and yard after the first downpour turned into a mud puddle, so try to stay higher. But even if your cottage is built on a sandy hill, ideal "absorbent" moisture, and groundwater to many meters of soil, no drainage system is necessary. This simple truth long understood abroad, where drainage is arranged everywhere, without fail, regardless of the site geology, atmospheric and weather conditions. They have a country house and yard without a drainage system - all the same that delivered turnkey cottage with no roof. Why? Because well-made drainage lowers the water table (if any come close to the ground surface), which is a precondition for a long and distinguished service foundation. Even if the water table is deep, the house stands on a hill, and all the waterproofing work was carried out, it does not mean that the foundation and basement are completely protected from the effects (or penetration) of moisture. Often the fall rains come, then comes the cold snap. Water, not had time to seep into the soil, binds ice cap foundation. Thaw begins - it thaws, then again in the cold turns to ice. As a result, concrete, no matter what brand it was, after several years of warp, cracks - and there is no waterproofing will not help. With drainage such troubles are excluded. Well, the house stands in a valley in the spring thaw and autumn weather in general, "float". Of course, if the owner does not take care of drainage. Separate story, when, according to draft changes the relief area (for example, appears artificial mound with a stone ridge to the waterfall), or arranged an artificial pond. It should definitely provide for additional ways in which the excess water will go beyond the territory. Tube or wormhole? Drainage may be open (so-called drainage ditches), closed (with drain pipes) Charging (gravel, brick), Krotov (like holes) and the slit. The easiest drainage - OPEN. To make it, should be dug around the perimeter of the open drainage ditch width of 0.5 and a depth of 0,6-0,7 meters. The walls of hewn ditch at an angle of 30 degrees - and the drainage is ready for operation. This simple system is especially effective on the sites located on a slope - the water simply flows into the header. But even if the land in a valley or plain, open drainage will also play a role: collected in ditches, water will gradually evaporate. What is indisputable advantage open drainage? Laid quickly, material costs - no. But! Have to enclose a ditch to avoid an accidental fall, periodically cleaned (along with the water will drain dirt and debris), and most importantly - she is "fit" is not in any project, conceived by landscape designer, and takes a lot of places. Another thing - closed drainage, for a device which uses the section of perforated (with holes in the walls) of pipes. Dug deep trenches up to one meter and a width of 30 cm, preferably sloped in order to ensure water runoff. Trench bottom lining of coarse gravel or rubble, then the pipe is laid right next to the excess water to seep into the lumen between them (the center of such a system is line pipe, whose diameter can be up to 100 mm, and has come from her side pipes with a diameter of 75 mm). Then this whole structure falls asleep rubble stone or gravel and the surface layer of soil. Drainage tubes may be of asbestos cement, pottery (ceramic) and polymer (polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride), their diameter - 50 to 200 mm or more. What kind of pipe you choose? The answer to this question must be sought, together with specialists in the drainage system, based on the specific situation in your area. Asbestos cement pipes and pottery cheap, but they are often "silt" - they will have to periodically wash. In addition, over time they begin to move relative to each other due to natural movements of the earth. And it is possible that after a while (it depends again on the specific area) will open the system and shift the pipe. Polyethylene pipes affected by movements of soil is less than the asbestos-cement or pottery, but they have to wash not less. In addition to bury them in the ground deeper than two meters can not, it's not always comfortable with. Corrugated perforated pipes of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic is more expensive, especially asbestos, but also the functional head and shoulders above these "competitors". They are double layer - inner layer with a smooth surface facilitates self-cleaning tube and increase its capacity, and the outer corrugated shell provides increased rigidity of the pipe. PVC pipes are almost always, they can dig in and on the eight-meter depth, without having to worry about prevention: numerous slit-like openings ensure effective drainage and filters are made of coconut fiber or geotextiles protected from siltation. Charging DRAINAGE preferably used in small areas where the ditches "eat" too much scarce space. Through the section tilted dig a trench, filling it half broken bricks or rubble. Top - gravel and flipped the turf. Completes all of the topsoil. There are also so-called Krotov DRAINAGE - holes in the form of tubular channels, similar to the mole tunnels, that break only in clay soils using a special device mounted on a tractor. The depth of these "moves" can be up to five feet, the distance between them - from 2 to 15 pm You can arrange and SLOTTED DRAIN, which are the elongated, tapered upward gap, dug through a special drainage slot machines. Pluses moles and slit drainage: is cheap, virtually invisible, disadvantages: they can be arranged only in clay soils, and they serve a limited time - a few years would have to call a tractor with moles or drainage slot machine. Regardless of the system, you may chose, we must think about where you want to drain the collected water. Sometimes, if the site is located on a slope, the water directed into the gutter, and then - in a ravine or a river. Often do drain well - a hole with a diameter of up to two meters deep and no less than two meters (all depends on the size of the plot). Obkladyvayut brick pit with cement, then poured a well broken brick or rubble stone, and on top, not to silt, laid the sod. If the site relief is too "quiet" for the diversion of water by gravity, and wait for the collected water will evaporate, has neither the desire nor the ability to be applied wastewater pumping system. However, not so important where it will drain water from your site - into the pit, ravine, creek or the nearest ditch. The main thing - get rid of it so that it does not hurt the house and vegetation.
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